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Rick Bennett's Trailer


Hauling a W.W.I airplane on a trailer was something done in an official manner by all sides back in W.W.I. So, don't feel guilty about using a trailer, but feel proud that you built it yourself and become another "Trailer-Weenie".




Now, some initial trailer designs have been copied by replica owners, and they worked pretty good. But, as time goes on, new designs appear that are even better. Here is one example that Rick Bennett created.  What is really nice about his, is the enclosure will keep everything very dry, streamlined the whole thing for easier towing, and it's light.  Rick designed and built this trailer in 2007, and he wrote an article on it that appeared in the GWAA's newsletter, The Great Times, spring 2008 issue (Volume 12, Issue1).
Here are some pictures:


Now lets get into the neat part of it...the building part! Here are a few pictures of the bare frame, and a drawing & some important words from Rick Bennett:



For a higher resolution picture of this drawing, click below

ricks_drawing_lg.jpg, (7.3" x 10" x 200DPI)

Rick's words...
It was built in ten days by two guys working part time. It works well to have one guy cutting with a chop saw and the other welding. All welding was done with a 110 volt, 110 amp MIG welder. Anyone attempting this project should check to make sure their model of aircraft will fit properly. Any of the dimensions could be changed to accommodate another type or scale. This trailer weighed in at 650 lbs empty, complete, and ready to travel. I have towed it 900 miles one way to Gardner with my Toyota Rav 4 with a 2 liter motor. A vehicle with a V6 would be a better choice. It tracks well on the road even in some pretty high winds. It does move around some when you are close to a semi truck, but nothing dangerous.

Supplies needed are as follows;

1 ea) Axle with springs of the width to fit you frame (I had to cut mine and add 6" in the middle)

3 ea) Wheels and tires (Mine are 13" rims with trailer rated tires, don't forget the spare)

2 ea) Fenders

1 ea) Hitch to fit 2" tube

2 ea) Safety chains

1 ea) Light kit

30 Yds) Aircraft fabric (I used the heavy stuff)

2 ea) Rolls 2" aircraft fabric tape

1 gal) Water base contact glue (I used 3m Fastbond 30)

1 gal) Latex house paint

6 ea) Exterior plywood sheets, 3/8"

4 ea) Hinges for the rear door, 4"

4 ea) Hinges for the front and top doors, 3"

1 ea) Lift jack with wheel for the front (So you can move it around when disconnected from your tow vehicle)

2 qts) Varnish for the plywood

1 qt) Rusty red primer

1 qt) Gray enamel

8 ea) Bolts, for doors, 3/8" x 1 1/2"

2 ea) Bolts, grade 8 for safety chains, 3/8" x 1"

10 ea) Nuts, for above bolts, 3/8"

8 ea) 1 1/4" long pieces 3/8" ID steel tube, heavy wall, for bushings at door bolts

100 ea) Self tapping 1/4" x 3/4" countersunk flat head screws (For the plywood deck)

Steel channel 3" x 2" x 1/8" for the main frame (Have this pressed by your local steel fab shop)

         2 ea) 12'

         4 ea) 66"

         3 ea) 36"

Steel tube 2" x 2" x 1/8" for the tongue

         1 ea) 54"

Steel tube 1" x 1" x 1/16" for the upper structure

          300' (You may need extra for screw ups or if you change the overall dimensions)

I have taken Rick's plans to the next step in evolution, and rendered his trailer in CAD (SolidWorks Weldments). The CAD program will give me a "material cut list" of each member's length to be cut. Also, it can tell me the weight of the trailer as well as the CG of it. It's all very neat stuff.
Also, I can resize the trailer to fit a larger airplane, and print out the 2D drawing and it's material cut list as well.
Here is a picture of my CAD rendering, per his original drawing dimensions:


(Mr. Jan Servaites, Kettering, OH 45420.......7/5/2010)

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